History of Perfume: Luxury Perfume Through the Ages
Perfume is a staple in many of our daily routines - and it has been for millennia. Over time, the art of perfumery has evolved, and today, luxury perfumes are synonymous with high-end fashion brands and celebrities. From Chanel No. 5 - “a woman’s perfume that smells like a woman”, to the iconic Miss Dior which has gone through multiple iterations over 70 years, perfumes are as synonymous with some luxury brands as their clothing.
But perfume isn’t a modern invention. The creation of luxury perfumes dates back to ancient civilizations, including Egypt, Greece, and Rome. These early perfumes were made from natural ingredients such as herbs, flowers, and oils and were used for both personal and religious purposes. Many of the ingredients shown to be used back in Egypt are still prized today in perfume manufacture: jasmine, frankincense resin, lilies, honey, and lotus.
Let’s take a closer look at the history of these luxury perfumes.
History of Perfume in Egypt
The ancient Egyptians are credited with being the first civilization to use perfume, starting over 5,000 years ago. Though, for them, it wasn’t initially created to be used for cosmetic purposes.
Ancient Egyptians used perfumes in religious rituals, as they believed the odors connected humans with the Gods and pleased the deities. Perfume was also used to mask the smell of the embalming process. Soon after, perfumes were then used by the wealthy as a sign of status and were often gifted to royalty. It was typically a thicker viscosity than the perfumes we’re used to—more like olive oil than water.
The Egyptians used natural ingredients such as myrrh, frankincense, and rose petals to create their perfumes. The most popular perfume in Ancient Egypt is Kyphi, which was made with frankincense, aromatic resins, saffron, raisins, wine, honey, myrrh, and cinnamon.
According to some sources, Cleopatra had her own private perfume distillery that would create custom scents unique to her. Legend has it that Cleopatra dipped her sails in perfume before sailing out to meet Marc Antony, the scent of the exotic flowers traveling on the wind to preceed her arrival.
LUXURY PERFUMES INSPIRED BY ANCIENT EGYPT
Recently, scientists were able to replicate the exact perfume the Egyptian Queen would have worn, based on written sources and inscriptions on temple walls. Once her personal perfume choices were unveiled, the recreation inspired a string of luxury perfumes.
Clive Christian’s X collection is an homage to Cleopatra and Marc Antony’s love affair, featuring rich myrrh, infused with cardamom, cinnamon, and olive oil. The result is a heavy, distinctive perfume that is dripping with opulence. Meanwhile, Tocca’s Cleopatra perfume is lighter and alluring, drawing on the freshness of grapefruit and cucumber, with notes of amber, musk, and vanilla.
History of Perfume in Ancient Greece
It is believed that the Ancient Greeks were the first to create liquid perfumes, packaged in precious metal bottles. Perfumes were similarly used to those in Egypt, in religious rituals and to scent the body. But that’s not all. They were also used to treat ailments, as perfumes were believed to have healing properties, a sort of early form of aromatherapy.
While we’re conditioned to wear perfume just on pulse points today, Ancient Greeks wore different scents on different parts of the body. They used marjoram for the hair, palm oil for the chest, mint for the arms, thyme for the knees, and oregano oil for the feet.
Typically, they would apply perfume after bathing or before special events—just like we do today. Popular scents included myrrh, mint, marjoram, thyme, oregano, myrtle, and almond blossom.
LUXURY PERFUMES INSPIRED BY ANCIENT GREECE
There are a number of Ancient Greek-inspired perfumes available, if you want to draw on this period of history with your scents.
While sweet almond isn’t that popular of a scent today, it was very popular in Greece 5000 years ago. Prada’s Infusion D'Amande takes a modern twist on this scent, balancing the bitter almond with sweet amber and vanilla. For a more fresh, herbal scent, Guerlain’s Herbes Troublants is a fresh-aromatic fragrance, a blend of wild herbs and musky, cottony bottom notes, which pays homage to the luxury scents of Ancient Greece.
History of Perfume in Ancient Rome
Perfumes were a status symbol in ancient Rome and they were used by both men and women. In fact, the word ‘perfume’ comes from the Ancient Roman per fumum or ‘through smoke’.
The Romans were known for their use of exotic ingredients, such as myrrh, amber, and musk. Rich residents of ancient Rome also used perfumes to scent their homes and public spaces. Emperor Nero was so enamored with the scent of roses, that he had silver pipes installed so that his dinner guests could be spritzed with rosewater.
LUXURY PERFUMES INSPIRED BY ANCIENT ROME
As a nod to Ancient Rome, perhaps the best fragrances to opt for are those that heavily feature roses and rosewater.
The Burst of Relaxation Rosewater from L’Occitane is a beloved fragrance, with floral and aquatic notes designed to transport the wearer to a more serene place. Equally, Miss Dior Rose N' Roses is a more feminine take on the scent, giving a floral twist to the timeless classic Miss Dior fragrance. Citrus-y and rose-y all at once, it channels the irresistible scent of an endless field of flowers.
History of Perfume in the Middle Ages
As history progressed, so too did the ways perfume was used. During the Middle Ages, perfumes were used primarily for religious purposes, by the Catholic Church. Doctors also used it to mask the smell of decay during the Black Plague.
During these years, perfume was no longer used as a luxury cosmetic, and was seen as more of a frivolity. It wasn't until the Renaissance that perfumes became popular again as a luxury item.
History of Perfume in the Renaissance
During the Renaissance, perfumes once again became a symbol of wealth and luxury, coveted by women and men alike. The wealthy used perfumes to fragrance themselves and they were often gifted as a sign of status. At this time, there was a fear of public baths due to the plague epidemic, so those who could afford them relied on perfume to mask any odor.
Italian cities such as Florence and Venice became centers of perfume production, and many of the perfumes created during this time are still popular today. A scientific breakthrough in production, involving the cooling of vapors, allowed perfumiers to produce scented alcohol close to 95% proof. By the close of the 14th century, liquid perfumes had mostly replaced solid ones.
LUXURY PERFUMES INSPIRED BY THE RENAISSANCE
The most common fragrances used in Renaissance perfume recipes were cocoa, vanilla, cardamom, tobacco, and pepper. Of course, when we think of tobacco perfume, our thoughts immediately go to Tom Ford. The brand’s iconic Tobacco Vanille fragrance is a timeless classic, ideal for both men and women, and is close to the scents worn by the elite class during the Renaissance.
Maison Tahite’s Cacao Libertine is a lesser-known fragrance but one that also evokes the same connotations with Renaissance Europe. Top notes of bergamot and mandarine keep it fresh, while earthy scents of caramel, cardamom, and tuberose make it an intriguing fragrance.
History of Perfume In the 19th and 20th Centuries
The 19th and 20th centuries saw the rise of modern perfumery. Synthetic fragrances were developed, allowing perfumers to create scents that were not possible with natural ingredients alone. This also allowed fragrances to become more affordable, as rare and opulent ingredients were no longer needed to produce them.
In the late 19th century, French perfumer Francois Coty created the first designer fragrance, Chypre. This was followed by other famous fragrances such as Chanel No. 5, created by Coco Chanel in 1921, and Dior's Miss Dior, created in 1947.
Luxury Perfume Today
Today, luxury perfumes are synonymous with high-end fashion brands and celebrities. The likes of Gucci, Prada, and Tom Ford have fragrance collections, while celebrities such as Grace Kelly, Victoria Beckham, and Dolly Parton have had their own line of perfume at some point.
Fragrance is now an integral part of our daily lives, as important in our closets as shoes and bags. The fragrances market is projected to generate a revenue of US$59.87 billion worldwide in 2024, with an annual growth rate of 3%.
If you’re looking to find the right audience for your luxury perfume, but stuck on the marketing side of things, get in touch with the experts. Block & Tam is a marketing agency that specializes in luxury goods—like perfume—and can help you revolutionize your strategies.
